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Simenon, Maigret
and the bistrot cookery |
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Police
Chief Officer Maigret wasn't just a skilful policeman but also,
sometimese above all, a great gourmet; Simenon often lingers for
pages over the food habits of the Chief Officer, making them part of
the investigation; into " The hanged of Saint-Pholien" he
really makes a dish of mussels with French fries part of the story,
a food typical of Liege, Belgium, where he came from, into "The
house of the Flemish" the rice pie becomes a refrain that beats
the tempo of the investigation. |
For
Simenon, Maigret is sometimes just an excuse for a trip into cookery,
that simple and poor cookery he loved, made with ham bones, celery,
cabbage, potatoes, bacon fat and sausages that put together
will become a loud thundering named dish, the Parisienne Choucroute,
great example of poor men food re-utilization. |
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Dozens
and dozens are the dishes, now cooked by Mrs.Maigret, now by
the Brasserie Dauphine (famous for its beer), that Simenon
prepares us between a murder and a skilful theft. All that didn't
pass unnoticed: Courtine, maybe unknown to the most but a famous
French gastronomist, awarded by the French Academy for his many
works about French cookery, saw into Simenon novels the footsteps of
a lost cookery and decided to codify it, before that even the last
memory would disappear. |
Simenon
himself wrote a letter to Courtine, calling him "the last
classic"; for Simenon the house cookery marks for a lifetime,
as Madeleine for Proust. Simenon, into "Un Banc au soleil",
tells: " Those places were frequented by habituès, cabmen,
drivers or people like me who like a popular cookery, unrefined,
prepared by the hostess. The bar was made of tin and the wine was
produced by the host's brother, cousin or brother-in-law: local
wines you couldn't find at Bercy marketplace. |
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The
menu was written on a small blackboard and was made of just one
dish, besides sardines and white celery. The host himself served the
dinner, unless a daughter or a grandson in black apron was available
to help. The kitchen was separated from the hall by a glass door,
through which you could see the hostess working on the range. The
kitchen spreaded a good smell, so it wasn't necessary to read the
blackboard to know which was the main course. |
Since
that time I have been very keen of grilled andouillettes, beef stew,
ragout, larded veal stew with wild sorrel that then I later made
Maigret appreciate." It isn't a case theat the only long
lasting figure in his life was Boule, the housekeeper-cook he
employed after his first success; Boule followed him on the
Ostrogoth, his yacht, in his cruises, as far as Arizona
where he settled down for some years. |
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Cookery
was a source of inspiration for Simenon: it happens that Porquellos,
a little island in front of Antibes which boasts a typical cookery,
will become the place of several investigations maybe just to
describe its cookery with Maigret's words. |
Simenon
lamented the loss of markets, those made of stalls, shouting vendors;
for Simenon love was like mayonnaise: well done or badly
done, and his ideal woman was Mrs.Maigret. When he died, in
1989, 11 french restaurants he used to frequent decided to reserve a
place, putting up a plate " In memory of Georges Simenon, this
place belongs to Chief Officer Jules Maigret, guest of honour and
refined gourmet of this house". |
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Every
restaurant prepares one of Maigret's favourite courses, those
he ordered when he came there into his novels. Tarte Campagnarde at
Le Petit Tonneau, pork with lentils at Chez Leon, sliced ham at La
Taverne de Henri-IV, just under the Prefecture. |
Alessandro
Rocco
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